Q8: How can I lower the compressor's inrush current at startup of an ON/OFF type compressor?
Ans: Use an appropriate soft starter to dramatically lower the compressor motor's startup current. The voltage and phase angle to the motor are controlled by electronic devices inside this device.
Another common method for limiting inrush current while starting the compressor motor is to employ an auto transformer starter.
Q9: When I switch on the air conditioner, it turns on and off quickly before turning back on?
1) One reason could be that the OFF and ON timers are both active. OFF timers turn off the air conditioner after a set amount of time, and ON timers turn on the air conditioner after a set amount of time.
2) A second reason could be that you repeatedly clicked the ON/OFF button on the remote control.
Q10: I have to deal with this because my split unit is a non-inverter air conditioner. The outdoor fan has no output on the printed circuit board. Do you know why this is the case?
Ans: The external fan is usually attached to the compressor in non-inverter air conditioners. The exterior fan will only turn on when the compressor is turned on.
Q11: I'd like to ask you a few HVAC-related questions: (1) Will the inverter electronic components in a home split-type A/C unit be prone to heat and humidity attack because they are located within the outside unit? (2) The inverter outdoor unit has a much smaller volume and weight than a non-inverter machine. Why is this the case?
Ans: 1) The electronics should have been appropriately protected against water and humidity as part of a decent outdoor design. To prevent moisture and water from infiltrating the parts, some manufacturers would cover the printed circuit boards. After any repair work, check sure the components are correctly sealed.
2) The inverter compressor is lighter than the non-inverter compressor for the same capacity because it is more efficient. The inverter type, on the other hand, necessitates additional electrical control.
Q12: I discovered that my air conditioner automatically goes into timed mode. It displays the H11 code, indicating that there is a communication fault in both the indoor and outdoor units, according to the model's error code table. It was shown to a technician. He suspects that the transistors on the external PCB are faulty, but he is unsure. Could you offer any solutions to the problem?
Ans: This device is an inverter. Based on the minimal symptoms you described, the following could be potential issues.
1) Indoor-outdoor communication cable is loose or disconnected.
2) Damaged integrated circuits (ICs), transistors, resistors, or other components involved in communication between the two PCBs. It could be found on an indoor PCB, an outdoor PCB, or both. To avoid electrical shock, disconnect the power from the mains before inspecting the PCBs. If you're unsure, it's best to consult a certified professional.
Look for charred markings on the PCBs around the communication components (this may be difficult to identify if you are not into electronics design). If everything appears to be in working order, remove the communicating components, such as transistors or ICs, and examine their condition with a multimeter.
3) The communication connections between the interior and outdoor PCBs may have been harmed by electrical noise from other PCB sources or nearby circuits. It's possible that proper shielding or noise filtering may be necessary, and the vendor will have to provide this solution. This is simply our viewpoint. For assistance, contact the dealer.
Q13: Why did ice form on the coil of my split air conditioner's interior unit?
Ans: This could be due to a number of factors. Because the air filter and the evaporator coil may be unclean, air flow may be hindered. Another possibility is that the blower fan is broken.
Another possibility is that the refrigerant charge is too low. Low outside temperatures could also have had a role in this.
Q14: Why is the fan on my indoor unit so loud? My air conditioner is a ductless split system.
Ans: The indoor unit features a blower fan (typically cylindrical in shape and made of plastic) that draws and blows cool air into the room through the cooling coil. After a few years of use, the fan assembly may become loose, leading the blower to become unbalanced. This is the source of the operating noise.
The blower fan assembly must be removed and any imbalance corrected to address the problem. It is necessary to inspect the motor shaft that is attached to the blower to ensure that it is securely fastened.
Q15: Why does my indoor fan run yet the compressor won't start? Mine is a non-inverter ductless split cooling system.
Malfunctioning printed circuit boards, compressor failure, faulty sensors, and wiring difficulties are all examples of possible "real failures." Check the error code through blinking intervals or display if the manufacturer has built-in error, and consult the manuals to determine the type of defect.
One of the probable "false defects" is that the temperature setting is substantially higher than the room temperature, requiring no cooling. As a result, there is no need to turn on the compressor. Whether this is the case, lower the temperature setting to at least 3°C below room temperature and see if it turns on.
For some manufacturers, in DRY mode, the compressor will ON for a certain duration and OFF for another duration. Change the mode to COOLING mode.